Upper Mustang Trek

After breakfast we travel to Pokhara, either on a scenic 25-minute flight or a 6 to 7 hour drive along the Prithvi Highway following the Trishuli and Marshyangdi rivers. Pokhara is our home town, and the calm lakeside is a lovely place to settle in before the mountains. In the afternoon you can stroll along Phewa Lake or take a boat out towards the Tal Barahi temple. Your guide checks your gear and confirms the permits, and we have an early night ready for the morning flight to Jomsom.

An early morning flight squeezes between Dhaulagiri and the Annapurnas through the Kali Gandaki gorge, one of the most dramatic short flights in the Himalaya. From Jomsom we walk north along the wide, stony riverbed, usually with a strong afternoon wind at our backs. The trail is gentle and gives your body a first taste of the altitude. Kagbeni is a medieval-looking village of mud-brick houses, narrow alleys and a red Sakya monastery, and it sits right at the gateway to Upper Mustang. The permit checkpoint lies just to the north of the village.

We complete permit formalities at the checkpoint and step into the restricted area. The trail follows the east bank of the Kali Gandaki past cliffs honeycombed with ancient cave dwellings, reaching Tangbe with its white chortens and small apple orchards. Further on we reach Chhusang, where the river has carved striking red and grey cliffs. We cross the Kali Gandaki near a natural rock tunnel and climb steeply to Chele, the first village where the culture feels fully Tibetan. It is a demanding climb at the end of the day, so take it slowly.

A long but rewarding day that crosses the first real passes of the trek. We climb above the Kali Gandaki canyon with big views back to Nilgiri and Tilicho, cross Taklam La (about 3,624 m) and then Dajori La (about 3,735 m) before dropping to the small village of Samar, surrounded by poplar trees. From Samar the trail undulates through side valleys and past chortens to Syangboche, a tiny settlement of a few lodges tucked into a sheltered valley. Expect dry, dusty conditions and carry plenty of water.

We climb to a pass decorated with prayer flags and cairns, then cross the Nyi La, often described as the southern boundary of Lo, at roughly 4,000 m. The descent opens up wide views across the barren landscape towards the Annapurnas. Ghami is one of the largest villages in Upper Mustang, surrounded by barley fields and backed by red cliffs. Near the village you will see one of the longest mani walls in Mustang, and your guide will explain the legend that links it to the red cliffs of Dhakmar.

A shorter day. We descend to cross the Ghami Khola on a suspension bridge, walk alongside the long mani wall and climb gently over the Tsarang La before dropping into Tsarang. The village sits at the edge of a canyon and is dominated by a five-storey white dzong and a large red monastery with an important collection of statues and thangkas. In the afternoon we visit the gompa and walk around the old palace, and you have time to rest and acclimatise before the final push to Lo Manthang.

We cross a deep canyon, pass a large chorten and climb steadily to the Lo La, at about 3,950 m. From the top you get your first view of Lo Manthang: a compact walled city of whitewashed houses on a wide plateau, with snowy peaks along the Tibetan border behind it. We descend across the plain and enter through the single main gate. This is the heart of the old kingdom, and after settling into the lodge you can take a first walk around the outside of the city wall in the late afternoon light.

A full day inside and around the walled city. We visit Jampa Lhakhang, the oldest temple in Lo Manthang, famous for its mandala murals, and the great assembly hall of Thubchen Gompa. Chode Gompa, the working monastery of the city, is also on the route, and we walk past the nine-cornered royal palace. In the afternoon you can hike or ride a local pony to Namgyal Gompa and the village of Tingkhar, or visit the traditional Amchi medicine school. Monastery entry fees are payable locally.

We leave the city by a different trail that climbs across open grazing land to the Chogo La, at around 4,280 m, the highest point of the trek. The descent leads to Lo Gekar, better known as Ghar Gompa, said to be one of the oldest monasteries in Nepal and linked to Guru Rinpoche. Its walls are lined with painted stone carvings. From here the trail drops into the valley of Dhakmar, a village sitting beneath towering, deeply eroded red cliffs that local legend says were stained by the blood of a demon.

From Dhakmar we climb over a ridge and cross high, open country with long views of the eroded Mustang landscape and the Annapurna and Nilgiri peaks to the south. After the pass the trail rejoins the main route near Ghami, then continues over the Nyi La area and down to Ghiling. Ghiling is a pleasant village of barley fields and willow trees, with an old red gompa. It is a steady day with plenty of up and down, and you will notice how much stronger you feel now that you are well acclimatised.

We retrace part of the upward route through Samar and down to Chele, then descend to the Kali Gandaki and walk into Chhusang. From here a jeep takes us back down the valley past Tangbe and Kagbeni, where we exit the restricted area, and on to Jomsom, the district headquarters. Jomsom has a few more comforts, including hot showers in most lodges, and it is a good evening to celebrate the end of the trek with your guide and porters.

Morning flights out of Jomsom are the most reliable, so we head to the airstrip early for the short hop back to Pokhara, with Dhaulagiri and Annapurna I close by on either side. The rest of the day is free to relax by Phewa Lake, have a massage, or enjoy a good meal after two weeks of lodge food. If the flight is cancelled by wind or cloud, we travel back by road, which takes most of the day. Your guide keeps an eye on the forecast the evening before and has the road option ready so the journey stays on schedule.

We return to Kathmandu by tourist bus along the Prithvi Highway or on a short flight (optional upgrade). After checking in to your hotel you have time for last-minute shopping in Thamel or a visit to a heritage site such as Swayambhunath or Boudhanath. In the evening we meet for a farewell dinner to share stories from the trail. This day also works as a buffer if any flights were delayed earlier in the trip. If you prefer to fly, the Pokhara to Kathmandu flight takes about 25 minutes and leaves more time for sightseeing in the city, and we are happy to arrange it for a supplement.

Your trip ends today. Depending on your flight time you may have a few free hours for a final walk or souvenir shopping. A member of our team drives you to Tribhuvan International Airport about three hours before your international departure. Thank you for trekking with Elevate Trek; we hope to see you back in the mountains soon. If you have extra time, we can arrange additional nights in Kathmandu, a Chitwan safari or a short trek from Pokhara. Just let us know and our team will tailor the plan around your flight home.