Upper Mustang Circuit Trek

We head west to Pokhara by tourist bus along the Prithvi Highway, or by a short flight if you prefer. The road follows the Trishuli River through terraced hills and small bazaar towns. Pokhara is where our team is based, and the relaxed lakeside makes a gentle start to the trip. In the afternoon you can walk along Phewa Lake or hire a boat, and on a clear evening the summit of Machhapuchhre glows above the town. Your guide confirms permits and flight tickets for the morning.

We take the early flight from Pokhara to Jomsom, a spectacular hop through the Kali Gandaki gorge between Dhaulagiri and Annapurna I. From Jomsom we walk up the broad gravel riverbed to Kagbeni, an easy half-day that lets you get used to the thinner, drier air. Kagbeni is an atmospheric village of narrow passages, prayer wheels and a large red monastery, sitting where the Jhong Khola meets the Kali Gandaki. In the afternoon you can explore the old village and watch the wind pick up along the valley.

After checking in at the restricted-area checkpoint, we follow the Kali Gandaki north past Tangbe, a cluster of white houses and chortens among apple orchards, and on to Chhusang. Look out for the ancient cave dwellings cut high into the cliffs on both sides of the river. After crossing the Kali Gandaki close to a natural rock tunnel, we make a steep final climb to Chele. The villagers here are of Tibetan origin, and from this point on the culture, architecture and food all shift noticeably towards Tibet.

We climb out of Chele above a deep gorge to Taklam La, at about 3,624 m, then continue to Dajori La, at about 3,735 m, with views back to Nilgiri and across to Tilicho Peak. The trail drops to Samar, a green oasis of poplars and a good lunch stop, then weaves in and out of side valleys, past chortens and small shrines, before reaching the few lodges at Syangboche. It is a long, dry day with plenty of climbing, so steady pacing and regular water breaks are key.

A climb to a prayer-flag-covered ridge is followed by the crossing of the Nyi La, at roughly 4,000 m, traditionally the southern edge of the Kingdom of Lo. On a clear morning the Annapurna range stretches along the southern horizon. We descend gradually across wide, barren slopes into Ghami, a large village of whitewashed houses set among barley fields. In the afternoon you can walk out to see the famous long mani wall, one of the longest in Mustang, just beyond the village.

A deliberately short day that leaves the main trail. We cross the Ghami Khola and head up a side valley to Dhakmar, a small farming village that sits right under a wall of eroded red cliffs. The cliffs are riddled with caves, and local legend says their colour comes from the blood of a demon killed by Guru Rinpoche. Arriving by lunchtime gives you the afternoon to explore the village, photograph the cliffs as the light changes and rest ahead of tomorrow’s high crossing.

We climb out of the Dhakmar valley to Lo Gekar, known as Ghar Gompa, a small, very old monastery associated with Guru Rinpoche and filled with painted rock carvings. From here the trail climbs across high grazing land to the Chogo La, at around 4,280 m, the highest point of the circuit. The reward is a sweeping view north over the plateau of Lo. We descend gradually and approach Lo Manthang from the west, entering the walled city by its main gate in the afternoon.

Today we explore the city and its surroundings. In the morning we visit Jampa Lhakhang with its mandala murals, the grand hall of Thubchen Gompa and the working Chode Gompa, and walk past the royal palace. Later we travel north by jeep or pony up the Chhoser valley to the Jhong cave complex, a multi-storey network of rooms cut into the cliff, and the cliffside Nyphu Gompa. We return to Lo Manthang for a second night inside the walls. Take plenty of water and sun protection, as the valley is dry and exposed.

We leave the walled city and head south-east, crossing a ridge before dropping steeply to the Kali Gandaki near Dhi, a village of fields and orchards on the valley floor. After crossing the river we climb the east bank to Yara, which sits on a terrace facing huge, fluted cliffs full of caves. From here on the trail is well away from the main road and you are likely to meet few other trekkers. The evening light on the cliffs opposite Yara is one of the highlights of the east bank.

A day hike up the valley from Yara via Ghara to Luri Gompa, a cave monastery set into a cliff face. Inside, a painted stupa and wall paintings are thought to date back to around the 13th to 15th centuries and are among the finest early Buddhist art in Mustang. We also visit the small Tashi Kabum cave shrine if access allows. The trail climbs gradually through dramatic eroded scenery, and we return to Yara for the night, giving you another useful acclimatisation day before the long crossings ahead.

We descend to the river and follow a trail through an eerie landscape of eroded ridges and canyons, crossing several dry streambeds and a couple of small passes. Tangge is one of the most isolated villages in Mustang: a tight cluster of whitewashed houses, fields of barley and buckwheat, and a large chorten, set beside the river beneath huge cliffs. There is very little between Yara and Tangge, so the guide makes sure everyone carries enough water and snacks for the day.

The toughest day of the circuit. We make a long, steady climb from Tangge onto a high, uninhabited plateau and cross the Paa La, at around 4,180 m, with wide views over the Kali Gandaki and the Damodar and Annapurna ranges. There are no villages or lodges along the way, so we carry a packed lunch. A long descent brings us to Tetang, a village of stone houses squeezed into a narrow gorge near Chhusang. Expect to feel tired tonight; the good news is that the hardest part is behind you.

We climb steeply out of Tetang onto open, barren slopes and cross the Gyu La, at about 4,077 m, where views stretch to Dhaulagiri, Nilgiri, Tukuche and the Thorong peaks. The trail then descends into the Muktinath valley, leaving the restricted area. Muktinath is sacred to both Hindus and Buddhists; its temple complex has 108 water spouts and a small shrine where a natural gas flame burns beside a spring. We arrive in time for a late-afternoon visit to the temple.

An easy, mostly downhill day. We walk through Jharkot, with its old fortress ruins and hilltop monastery, and continue past Khingar to the edge of the Kali Gandaki valley, with views down onto Kagbeni. From Eklebhatti the trail follows the river south to Jomsom. The afternoon wind can be strong on this stretch, so we aim to start early. In Jomsom we enjoy a hot shower and a final dinner with the trekking crew. Muktinath is outside the restricted area, so this is also where your Restricted Area Permit days come to an end.

We take the early morning flight back to Pokhara, flying past Dhaulagiri and Annapurna I. The rest of the day is free: relax at a lakeside cafe, enjoy a massage after 13 days on the trail, or take a boat to the Tal Barahi temple. If wind or cloud cancels the flight, we drive back to Pokhara by jeep and bus, which takes most of the day. It is a good chance to rest your legs, repack your gear and catch up with messages home after nearly two weeks with limited signal.

We return to Kathmandu by tourist bus, or by air as an optional upgrade. After checking in, you have free time for souvenir shopping or a visit to one of the valley’s heritage sites, such as Boudhanath Stupa or Patan Durbar Square. In the evening we meet for a farewell dinner. This day also serves as a spare day in case any mountain flights were delayed. If you prefer to fly, the Pokhara to Kathmandu flight takes about 25 minutes and leaves more of the day free for sightseeing, and we can book it for a supplement.

Your circuit is complete. After breakfast you have free time until your transfer to Tribhuvan International Airport, which we time for about three hours before your international flight. Thank you for exploring Mustang with Elevate Trek; we hope you carry the quiet of Lo home with you and come back to walk with us again. If you have extra time, we can arrange more nights in Kathmandu, a Chitwan safari or a short trek near Pokhara. Just tell us and our team will plan around your flight home.