Mera Peak Climbing

Today is for preparation. Your climbing guide checks your personal equipment, including mountaineering boots, down suit or jacket, gloves and sleeping bag, and helps you rent or buy anything missing in Thamel’s gear shops. Our team finalises your NMA climbing permit and park permits. If time allows, you can visit Boudhanath Stupa or Pashupatinath Temple.

Take the early mountain flight to Lukla (2,860 m); in spring and autumn this may depart from Ramechhap after a drive from Kathmandu. Instead of following the main Everest trail north, you head east and climb through rhododendron and pine forest to the small yak herders’ settlement of Chutanga (3,430 m). The short day helps you start acclimatising before tomorrow’s pass.

A steady climb over rocky terrain, marked by cairns and prayer flags, leads to the Zatrwa La (4,610 m), the pass separating the Khumbu from the Hinku valley. On a clear day the view extends over Karyolang, Numbur and the Lumding Himal. A short descent brings you to Thuli Kharka (4,300 m), a high pasture with a few teahouses. Walk slowly and drink plenty today: this is a big altitude gain.

The trail descends through dense rhododendron, fir and bamboo forest into the Hinku valley, with first views of Mera Peak’s broad summit ahead. After a long, undulating descent you reach Kothe (3,600 m), a small settlement on the banks of the Hinku Khola. The lower altitude helps your body recover and acclimatise after the pass.

Follow the Hinku Khola upstream along the western bank, with Mera Peak and the Kusum Kanguru range above. On the way, stop at the small Lungsumgba Gompa, a 200-year-old shrine built beneath a rock face, before reaching Thaknak (4,356 m), a summer grazing area with simple lodges. The afternoon is free to rest and acclimatise.

A short but steep climb over the lateral moraine of the Dig Glacier leads to Khare (5,045 m), the last settlement below Mera Peak. Along the way you pass glacial lakes and enjoy dramatic views of the north face of Mera and the Charpate Himal. Khare’s lodges will be your base for the climb.

A vital day to acclimatise and prepare. In the morning, hike up towards Mera Base Camp for views and altitude gain. Later your climbing guide runs a pre-climb training session covering the use of crampons, ice axe, harness, ascender and rope techniques, including walking roped together on a glacier. Your guide also checks all the group and personal climbing equipment for the summit push.

Leave Khare on a steep, rocky trail to the edge of the Mera Glacier, then put on crampons and walk roped together across the glacier to the Mera La (5,415 m). From the pass, continue up the glacier to High Camp (about 5,780 m), set on a rocky outcrop beneath the summit slopes. The sunset over Everest, Makalu, Cho Oyu and Kangchenjunga from camp is spectacular. Eat, hydrate and sleep early.

Summit day begins around 1 to 2 am. Roped together with your guide, you climb steadily up the broad glacier by headtorch as the sky lightens behind Makalu. The final section below the summit dome is steeper, and a short fixed line may be used. From the top of Mera Central you look out over five 8,000 m peaks: Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Cho Oyu and Kangchenjunga. After photos, descend carefully to High Camp and continue down to Khare for a well-earned rest.

This contingency day allows for bad weather, a slower acclimatisation or any delay on the mountain. If the summit went to plan, use the day to rest at Khare or begin the descent at a gentler pace. Having this buffer greatly improves your chances of a safe, successful summit.

Retrace your steps down the Hinku valley through Thaknak to Kothe. The descent is easy on the lungs, and the forests and river feel lush after the high glaciers. Enjoy a relaxed evening celebrating the climb with your team.

Climb back out of the Hinku valley through rhododendron and fir forest to the high pasture of Thuli Kharka (4,300 m), positioning yourself for tomorrow’s crossing of the Zatrwa La.

A short climb takes you back over the Zatrwa La (4,610 m) for a final look at the peaks, followed by a long, steep descent through Chutanga to Lukla. Share a farewell dinner with your guides and porters on your last night in the mountains.

Take the morning flight from Lukla to Kathmandu, or to Ramechhap followed by a drive in the busy seasons. After checking in to your hotel, enjoy a hot shower and a relaxed afternoon.

A spare day in Kathmandu serves as a buffer against Lukla flight delays. If your flight ran on time, explore the city’s UNESCO World Heritage Sites such as Swayambhunath, Patan or Bhaktapur, or shop for souvenirs. In the evening, join our team for a farewell dinner.

Our team transfers you to Tribhuvan International Airport for your flight home, carrying the memory of standing on top of Nepal’s highest trekking peak.