Annapurna Circuit Trek

We leave Kathmandu early and follow the Prithvi Highway west along the Trishuli River, turning north at Dumre to Besisahar, the district headquarters of Lamjung. Here we switch to a local jeep for the rough road up the Marsyangdi valley, passing waterfalls, terraced fields and villages such as Bhulbhule, Jagat and Tal. The road is bumpy and slow but the scenery changes quickly as the gorge narrows. We stop for the night at Dharapani, where the trail from Manaslu joins the Annapurna route, and settle into our first teahouse of the trek.

Our first full day on foot follows the Marsyangdi west through Bagarchhap and Danaque, where prayer flags and mani walls show that you are entering Buddhist country. The trail climbs through pine and fir forest with the first glimpses of Annapurna II and Lamjung Himal, then passes Timang with its open views of Manaslu behind. We continue to Chame, the headquarters of Manang district, a village with shops, a small hot spring by the river and good teahouses. Take it easy this evening; you are now above 2,600 m.

The valley becomes steeper and narrower as we walk past the apple orchards of Bhratang and through a section of trail cut into the rock above the river. Around the next bend the enormous curved slab of Paungda Danda rises almost 1,500 m above the valley floor, one of the most striking sights of the circuit. The forest thins as we reach the wide Pisang valley. We climb to Upper Pisang, an old stone village with a gompa overlooking Annapurna II, and spend the night here to help acclimatisation.

Rather than the lower valley road, we take the upper trail, which is quieter and far more scenic. After crossing a stream the path climbs steeply in switchbacks to Ghyaru at about 3,730 m, a hard hour or two of effort that pays off with a close-up panorama of Annapurna II, III and IV and Gangapurna. From Ghyaru the trail contours along the hillside past chortens and small fields to Ngawal, a traditional village of flat-roofed stone houses. Climbing high and sleeping at a similar height is excellent preparation for the pass ahead.

A relaxed, mostly gentle descent brings us back to the valley floor near Mungji and on through the broad, dry landscape to Braga, whose centuries-old monastery perches on the cliff above the village and is well worth a visit. A short walk further is Manang, the largest settlement in the upper valley, with bakeries, small shops and a view straight across to the Gangapurna glacier. Arrive by lunchtime and enjoy a slow afternoon; the Himalayan Rescue Association post here usually gives a free talk on altitude sickness during the main seasons.

Today is about letting your body adjust before going higher. The rule is to climb high and sleep low, so after breakfast your guide will lead a hike above the village. Popular options are the short climb to the Gangapurna Lake viewpoint, the walk up to Praken Gompa where a resident lama has traditionally offered blessings to trekkers, or, for strong walkers, the long climb towards Ice Lake at around 4,600 m. Return to Manang for lunch, then rest, drink plenty of water and enjoy the village.

We leave the last big village behind and climb out of the Marsyangdi valley towards the northwest. The trail passes the small settlement of Gunsang and crosses open slopes of juniper and scrub where yaks and horses graze, with Annapurna III, Gangapurna and Chulu West behind us. The day is deliberately short, as the altitude gain matters more than the distance. We stop at Yak Kharka for lunch and a quiet afternoon, taking a short walk uphill if you feel well.

Another short but important day. We walk to Ledar, then cross the river on a suspension bridge and follow a trail cut across a steep, rocky slope. This section can have rockfall, so your guide will keep the group moving steadily and quietly through it. By late morning we reach Thorong Phedi, the cluster of lodges at the foot of the pass. Rest, eat well, pack your bag for an early start and go to bed early. Some groups continue a further hour to High Camp; your guide will decide based on how everyone is feeling.

The big day starts around 4 or 5 in the morning to get over the pass before the strong afternoon wind. The first steep hour climbs to High Camp, then the trail zigzags up a long series of moraines and false summits. Go slowly and steadily. After roughly four to five hours you reach the prayer flags and chorten of Thorong La at 5,416 m, with views of Thorong Peak, the Annapurnas and the Mustang ranges. The descent is long and hard on the knees, dropping about 1,600 m to Muktinath, where a warm teahouse and a big dinner are waiting.

In the morning we visit Muktinath, a sacred site for both Hindus and Buddhists, known for its 108 water spouts and a small shrine where a natural gas flame burns beside a spring. We then walk down the dry, wind-carved valley past the fortress-like village of Jharkot to Kagbeni, a medieval village of mud-brick houses at the gateway to Upper Mustang. The final stretch follows the wide Kali Gandaki riverbed to Jomsom. The afternoon wind in this valley is strong, so start early. A jeep is available for part of the way if you prefer.

Morning flights are the most reliable in the windy Kali Gandaki valley, so we head to the airstrip early for the short flight to Pokhara. In about 20 to 25 minutes you fly between Dhaulagiri and Annapurna I, through one of the deepest gorges on earth, before landing beside Phewa Lake. After checking into your hotel the rest of the day is yours: a boat ride on the lake, a lakeside massage, or simply a long, well-earned lunch. If flights are cancelled by weather, we travel by jeep instead.

After breakfast we board a tourist bus back to Kathmandu along the Prithvi Highway, following the Seti, Marsyangdi and Trishuli rivers through the middle hills. The journey takes most of the day with stops for tea and lunch. You arrive in Kathmandu in the late afternoon and are transferred to your hotel. Spend the evening shopping for souvenirs in Thamel or enjoying a farewell dinner. Domestic flights to Kathmandu are available at extra cost if you would rather save time.

Your trek with Elevate Trek comes to an end today. Depending on your flight time you may have a few hours for last-minute shopping or a visit to Boudhanath Stupa. A member of our team will transfer you to Tribhuvan International Airport about three hours before your international departure. Thank you for walking the Annapurna Circuit with us; we hope to welcome you back to the mountains again soon. If you have extra days, we can arrange a Kathmandu Valley heritage tour, a jungle safari in Chitwan or a few more relaxed days in Pokhara before you fly home.