Upper Mustang Tiji Festival Tour 12 Days | 11 Nights

A 25-minute flight carries you west along the Himalaya to Pokhara, with Manaslu and the Annapurnas visible from the right side of the plane on a clear day. Pokhara is our home base, and the afternoon is free for a walk along Phewa Lake, a boat ride to the island temple of Tal Barahi, or a visit to the World Peace Pagoda above the lake. In the evening your guide confirms the jeep and permits for the overland journey north.

We set off by private 4WD jeep through the hills to Beni, where the paved road ends and we turn north into the Kali Gandaki gorge. The road follows the roaring river beneath steep, forested walls with waterfalls pouring down from above. We stop for the night at Tatopani, a village named after its hot springs. After a dusty drive, a soak in the riverside pools is the perfect way to end the day and loosen up for the long journey still to come.

The jeep climbs through the deepest part of the gorge, between Dhaulagiri and Annapurna I, passing Ghasa, Lete and Kalopani as pine forest gives way to dry, windswept country. We stop in Marpha, a tidy Thakali village of white stone houses and apple orchards, before passing Jomsom and reaching Kagbeni. This fortress-like village of narrow alleys and a red monastery sits at the gateway to Upper Mustang, and at 2,810 m it is a good place to begin acclimatising before going higher.

After the restricted-area permit check, we drive north past Tangbe and Chhusang, where ancient caves pepper the cliffs, then climb through Chele, Samar and Syangboche. The track crosses high ground near the Nyi La, at around 4,000 m, before dropping to Ghami and its long mani wall. We continue to Tsarang for the night, visiting the red monastery and the ruined five-storey dzong in the afternoon. Sleeping here breaks the climb and helps you arrive in Lo Manthang feeling well.

A short drive over the Lo La brings us to Lo Manthang, which is buzzing on the eve of Tiji as families arrive from villages across Mustang in their finest clothes. After checking in we take an easy walk inside the walls to Jampa Lhakhang, the oldest temple in the city, and the great hall of Thubchen Gompa. Preparations for the dances are under way around Chode Gompa, and your guide explains the story of Dorje Jono so you know what to look for tomorrow.

The festival opens in the square in front of the royal palace. A giant thangka is unfurled on the palace wall, and monks from Chode Gompa in elaborate masks and costumes perform the first Cham dance, often called Tsa Chham, which tells how the demon brought drought and misery to Lo. Long horns, drums and cymbals accompany the slow, powerful movements. The dances run for several hours, and your guide helps you find a good spot among the crowd while respecting the ritual.

In the morning, before the dances begin, we drive north up the Chhoser valley to the Jhong cave complex, a multi-storey network of rooms cut high into a cliff, and the rock-built Nyphu Gompa. We return to Lo Manthang in time for the second day of Tiji, often called Nga Chham, in which Dorje Jono takes on his various forms to battle the demon. The square is packed with locals, and the atmosphere is both festive and deeply devotional. Lunch is taken back in the city before the dances start.

The final day, often called Rha Chham, marks the defeat of the demon. After the last dances the monks carry an effigy representing evil out through the city gate, where it is ritually destroyed, symbolising the return of peace and prosperity to Lo. Crowds follow the procession, and the day ends in celebration. In the morning, before the ceremonies begin, you are free to walk up to Namgyal Gompa or simply wander the lanes of the city. It is an unforgettable way to close the festival and the heart of this journey.

A long day in the jeep takes us back south through Tsarang, Ghami, Syangboche and Chele, and down the Kali Gandaki past Chhusang. We leave the restricted area at Kagbeni and continue down the valley to Jomsom, the district headquarters. Jomsom lodges are more comfortable than those further north, with hot showers, and this evening we share a final dinner with the driver and guide before tomorrow’s flight. Expect dust and bumps on the rough sections of road, so keep a buff and sunglasses handy. We stop for lunch in one of the villages along the way and take short breaks for photos.

We take the early morning flight from Jomsom to Pokhara, a short but spectacular route between Dhaulagiri and Annapurna I. After a break in Pokhara, we connect to a flight back to Kathmandu and transfer to your hotel. The rest of the day is free for shopping or a visit to Boudhanath Stupa. If the Jomsom flight is cancelled due to wind or cloud, we drive back to Pokhara and adjust the onward connection. On the way, your guide will point out Dhaulagiri and Annapurna I so you can enjoy one last close view of the peaks from the air.

Your Tiji journey ends today. Depending on your flight time, you may have a few hours for a final walk or souvenir shopping. We drive you to Tribhuvan International Airport around three hours before your international departure. Thank you for celebrating Tiji with Elevate Trek; we hope the drums of Lo Manthang stay with you for a long time. If you have more time, we can arrange extra nights in Kathmandu, a Chitwan safari or a short trek from Pokhara. Just tell us and our team will plan the extension around your flight home.